Corfu, crossroads of the Adriatic Sea
A two-week fling around the edges of the southern Adriatic Sea included a stay in Corfu, where we lingered longer than expected after some moped adventures, a missed ferry and getting locked into our hotel room, along with other unforeseen circumstances. We were glad it turned it turned out that way because we ended up enjoying a memorable real Greek feast in local’s place near the waterfront. One evening, as we sat in the ferry terminal working online, we watched a group of local men twirl their worry beads while watching the Greek soccer team on a big-screen TV.
Read about the Corfu ferry terminal here and scroll through the blogs for more Euro-tripping.
Corfu is a hotspot for European vacations, and Greece's greenest island isn't exactly known for bargains. But during the off-season in late October, we found a hotel in the center of the Island for about $30 per night. George, the owner, said his cousin would rent a moped for about $12 per day, about half the usual cost, so we settled in for a few days to explore. Showers heralded the start of the rainy season, leading to an unexpected profusion of tender pink blossoms in a grove full of gnarled olive trees.
Corfu may not have the stereotypical white-washed look of other Greek isles, but the core of it's old town is so well-preserved that UNESCO gave it World Heritage status a few years ago. The island was part of the Venetian merchant empire for centuries, a history reflected by the architecture in the heart of the old town.
At an open-air cafe (with wifi, no less) between the sea and the only cricket pitch in Greece, we enjoyed a view of the Venetian fortress and a coffee drink billed as a Nescafe frappe. Tasty, but the recipe is secret. We'll try to recreate it at home.
Corfu's Venetian architectural legacy stands out in places like this tower along the ramparts of the castle that helped repel several invasions by would-be Ottoman conquerors. Today the castle hosts historic exhibits and music classes, and offers fantastic views over the city and out to sea toward Albania.
On a cloudy, cool evening in late October, Leigh and I had the entire castle to ourselves at sunset. We lingered on the highest watchtower to enjoy the sunset and watch the lights flicker on in old Corfu.
The Venetian fortress of Corfu, Greece.
Somehow, a small miracle happened in downtown Corfu. Thousands of sparrows flocked to the shelter of the trees along the main street. I’d tell you the name but I haven’t yet found the Greek characters on my smart phone. Not smart enough. But we have learned to say please – parakolo – and think you – efkharisto – and that the frothy milk drink we crave is a Nescafe frappe, in other words, an instant coffee milkshake. As we order up at the sidewalk cafe, the birds all start to sing at once. They manage to drown out the incessant roar and beeping for a few minutes in a triumphant symphony of chirps. Wandering up along the ramparts of Corfu’s new fortress at dusk, we’re alone with few bats that fly out of a dark cleft in the old stone walls. Our footsteps echo in the tunnel and I turn around, half expecting to see the ghost of a Venetian soldier or merchant, slightly disappointed that it’s only my own shadow. Back in town, down the alley, the shop windows are full salted fish, vacuum cleaner, hair dryers and toys. I think we wandered off the tourist path and into something approaching the “real” Corfu.
Nightfall over Corfu, viewed from the old castle and looking toward the sea, with the Venetian fortress visible on the far skyline.
In some cities, this bell tower might be a featured historic site. In Corfu, Greece, it's hidden in a nameless back alley, partially obscured by a load of drying laundry.
While Leigh and I took advantage of the free wifi in the Corfu ferry terminal, these gentlemen enjoyed watching their national football team play on a big screen TV. Whenenver the game got tense, they'd twirl their wooden worry beads with their fingers.
A rainy night in Corfu's shopping district.
After a chilly moped ride along the coast, we warmed up at a fine sand beach.
A kiosk owner with a sense of humor uses a well-known name and symbol to advertise a small shop selling cigarettes, candy, newspapers, gum and other convenience items in the heart of old Corfu, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007. Wonder if the folks at McDonalds corporate headquarters know about this?
From aboard a ferry bound for Albania, Corfu looks like it's retreating under a puffy comforter.
